Good hydration hastens acclimatization and prevents dehydration. Each climber should plan on consuming at least four liters of fluid per day. Plan for three weeks of food for the West Buttress, consisting of 4,000 to 5,000 calories per person per day. Never cook without adequate cross ventilation! Avoid lighting the stove while inside the tent. If so, cooking must be done at the entrance, with plenty of ventilation. Under extreme conditions, members of a party may be forced to cook inside the tent. Stove operation should occur outside of the tent. Many groups find a separate well-ventilated cook tent to be helpful to get out of your sleeping tent and have alternate shelter during extended storms. A flame resistant cook board is a huge help in providing a level platform for using stoves and heavy water pots. However, some groups opt to take one canister stove in addition to their white gas stoves for quick and easy water production or as an emergency stove on summit day. For a three week trip, most groups plan for one gallon per person, with one extra gallon for the team.Ĭartridge stoves are sometimes used on Denali, but they don't tend to perform as well in cold conditions, the cartridges are not as widely available, and they aren't as efficient for making large batches of water and food. Fuel usage can vary quite a bit from team to team based on your meal planning and water needs. White gas is available for purchase through your air taxi. White gas stoves have been a staple on Denali for decades and they continue to provide reliable performance in cold weather and at high altitude. Repair kits for your chosen model of stove and knowledge of how to maintain and repair them in the field is also key. Additionally, having some redundancy (multiple stoves) in case of a failure is essential. Ensuring your stoves are in good working order is of utmost importance. Quality, efficient stoves are your critical link to food and water. Also ensure adequate ventilation to avoid fogging up your goggles or glasses.Ĭamp Booties Though some consider booties a luxury item, giving your feet a rest from mountaineering boots can improve both morale and the health of your feet on a longer trip. Make sure your system leaves no gaps in coverage on the face, forehead, and neck to avoid frostbite and sun exposure. Removable liners allow for better drying.įace Protection Countless combinations of face masks, balaclavas, Buffs, brimmed hats, and goggles are all seen on Denali. Mittens Expedition weight mittens are critical in avoiding frostbitten fingers. Full length side zips are highly recommended so they can be put on without having to take off other layers, boots, or climbing harnesses. The jacket should have a hood that fits over your climbing helmet. Hardshell Jacket and Pants Should be waterproof, breathable, and durable. Full length side zips are highly recommended. Insulated Pants "Puffy" pants of either down or synthetic insulation are great for either relaxing in camp or climbing in colder conditions. The outermost insulated parka needs to fit over all over clothing and jacket layers, including a hood designed to fit over a climbing helmet and to keep out blowing wind and snow. As with footwear, your clothing should be of the highest quality and be familiar to you prior to the expedition.Įxpedition weight down parka with a good hood Rather than one single large parka, many Denali climbers bring a modular system of one lighter weight parka and one moderate to heavy weight parka to allow flexible layering for changing conditions. The clothing layers you select for your Denali expedition will need to cover a wide range of temperatures and conditions.
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